Rounding Cape Horn & Cruising the Beagle Channel: A Tale of Two Waters

Rounding Cape Horn & Cruising the Beagle Channel: A Tale of Two Waters

Posted by on Apr 17, 2017 in Argentina, Chile | 2 Comments

“It is scarcely possible to imagine anything more beautiful than the beryl-like blue of these glaciers, and especially as contrasted with the dead white of the upper expanse of snow.” ~Charles Darwin, The Voyage of the Beagle Cape Horn Five-thirty came early as we turned off the alarm and made our way to the Observation […]

Ushuaia, Argentina: Land of Fire at the End of the World

Ushuaia, Argentina: Land of Fire at the End of the World

Posted by on Apr 10, 2017 in Argentina | 2 Comments

When a place calls itself Fin del Mundo – “the end of the world” – you know it must lay claim to some pretty serious bragging rights. And when you add the phrase Tierra del Fuego – “land of fire” – into the description, it’s a safe bet that you’re in for a fascinating time. […]

Antarctica Days 5 & 6: An Unexpected Ending & Life On Board

Antarctica Days 5 & 6: An Unexpected Ending & Life On Board

Posted by on Apr 3, 2017 in Antarctica | 2 Comments

We had just finished our evening recap & briefing meeting and were heading to dinner when Captain Dag’s voice came over the public address system. Two guests needed serious medical treatment, he told us, and the ship had to change its course. The upcoming morning’s planned glacier hike on Niko Island would be cancelled. Instead, […]

Antarctica Day 4: Waterboat Point, Gentoo Penguin Chicks & Mailing A Postcard

Antarctica Day 4: Waterboat Point, Gentoo Penguin Chicks & Mailing A Postcard

Posted by on Mar 29, 2017 in Antarctica | 8 Comments

Today was cold! The crystalline blue sky and seemingly endless sunlight of our first days in Antarctica had dissolved into an ashy gray shroud. Snow was lightly falling as our zodiac sped through Paradise Bay. We were headed to González Videla, a Chilean base on Waterboat Point. Unlike our previous island landings, Waterboat Point is […]

Antarctica Day 3: Torgersen Island, Adélie Penguins & The Day the Iceberg Fell

Antarctica Day 3: Torgersen Island, Adélie Penguins & The Day the Iceberg Fell

Posted by on Mar 27, 2017 in Antarctica | 6 Comments

“The ice was here, the ice was there, The ice was all around: It crack’d and growl’d, and roar’d and howl’d, Like noises in a swound!” ~Samuel Taylor Coleridge, The Rime of the Ancient Mariner Our zodiac slowed to a crawl as we made our way around what seemed to be a never-ending waterway of […]

Cruising the Lemaire Channel: Quite Possibly the Most Beautiful Place on the Planet

Cruising the Lemaire Channel: Quite Possibly the Most Beautiful Place on the Planet

Posted by on Mar 22, 2017 in Antarctica | 6 Comments

They call it Kodak Gap. A narrow, iceberg-filled passageway that is one of the most photographed places in Antarctica. Barely a mile wide and just seven miles long, it’s a world unto itself, with steep rocky cliffs, magnificent glaciers and the stillest of waters. With icebergs at every turn, it’s a challenging place to navigate, […]

Antarctica Day 2: Cuverville Island, Gentoo Penguins & Crabeater Seals

Antarctica Day 2: Cuverville Island, Gentoo Penguins & Crabeater Seals

Posted by on Mar 20, 2017 in Antarctica | 2 Comments

Gentoo penguins seemed to be everywhere on Cuverville Island. With their distinctive white stripe on the top of their heads and their bright orange-red beaks, they were quite a spectacle, climbing over the rocky terrain, waddling into the water and collecting pebbles for their nests. With 6,500 breeding pairs, it’s the largest Gentoo colony in […]

Antarctica Day 1: Half Moon Island & Chinstrap Penguins

Antarctica Day 1: Half Moon Island & Chinstrap Penguins

Posted by on Mar 15, 2017 in Antarctica | 8 Comments

“Who will buy this wonderful morning? Such a sky you never did see. Who will tie it up with a ribbon And put it in a box for me?” ~ Lionel Bart, Who Will Buy? I couldn’t believe the shades of blue. It was as if tablets of Easter egg dye were being dropped into […]

Crossing the Drake Passage: Antarctica Here We Come!

Crossing the Drake Passage: Antarctica Here We Come!

Posted by on Mar 13, 2017 in Antarctica | 6 Comments

“Where losing sight of land, we shall find the stars.” ~Sir Francis Drake The boom was loud, jolting us from our sleep. It was the middle of our first night in the Drake Passage, and the gently rocking waves of early evening had become more intense, with seconds between their rise and fall, like hang […]

The Falkland Islands: A Bumpy, Boggy Journey to Volunteer Point

The Falkland Islands: A Bumpy, Boggy Journey to Volunteer Point

Posted by on Mar 6, 2017 in Falkland Islands | 2 Comments

Part of the unwritten contract on a cruise that stops in the Falkland Islands is knowing that you might not get there. Weather Permitting is the caveat emptor, and it’s difficult to comprehend just how significant that can be until you’ve visited the remote, windswept islands. Surrounded by an unforgiving South Atlantic Ocean, it’s a […]