“If you swim around the rock three times under a full moon at midnight, you will be blessed with eternal beauty!”

Our guide Tatiana was spinning the legend of Aphrodite’s Rock as we drove along the southern coast of Cyprus. The birthplace of the ancient Greek goddess of love and beauty was the first stop on our full-day tour of the island that would be taking us to the ancient archaeological sites of Paphos and Kourion.

The Republic of Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean and is considered one of the oldest civilizations in the world. Settled by Mycenaean Greeks around 2,000 B.C., the island was occupied by a host of empires throughout the centuries. In 1878 it was placed under the UK’s administration and became an independent republic in 1960. A separate self-declared Turkish Cypriot state in the northern part of the island was established in 1983.

“Culturally and ethnically we are Greeks,” Tatiana emphasized, “even though we are an independent republic.”

Aphrodite’s Rock

The legendary rock, also known as Petra tou Romiou, is about a half-hour drive from Limassol, Cyprus’ second largest city and the port where the Regent Voyager was docked. It’s a rugged-looking coast, with sloping white rocky terrain and brushy green vegetation. A variety of sea stacks appear near the shoreline like stone towers floating in the Mediterranean. Without a guide to point out Aphrodite’s Rock, it would be difficult to determine the specific spot where the ancient goddess rose from the foam of the sea.

View from my window on the road from Limassol.
At the Aphrodite’s Rock lookout.
Close-up view of Aphrodite’s Rock, the center sea stack.

Paphos Archaeological Park

Our next stop was Paphos Archaeological Park, ruins of an ancient Greek and Roman city with monuments and artifacts dating from prehistoric times through the Middle Ages. Our main focus was the House of Dionysos, one of four excavated Roman villas and the first house with mosaic floors to be discovered in Paphos. The site is worthy of more time than we had – with kings’ tombs, a forum, theater, lighthouse and other villas to explore – but the exquisite mosaics are clearly a standout.

Entering Paphos Archaeological Park.
Wispy trees create shadows over dusty pathways.
The Paphos Lighthouse rises in the distance.

The House of Dionysos was built during the Hellenistic Roman period, around the end of the second century A.D. A courtyard serves as the center of the structure, with rooms spinning out like spokes on a wheel. It is believed the house was destroyed in an earthquake in the fourth century. Walking inside reminded me of the ancient terrace houses we had visited in Ephesus, Turkey, which also had been buried by an earthquake and discovered with their mosaic floors in extraordinary condition.

As we walked along wooden platforms constructed above the mosaic floors, Tatiana offered insight into the mythology behind the designs. Dionysos was the Greek god of wine, she explained, and the villa’s owner included references to wine and the harvest in every mosaic scene. Each room was numbered and included signage that described the story depicted on the floors. I was struck by the sophistication of the designs and how some of the scenes looked as if they could have been paintings rather than tiles.

Looking down on one of the rooms in the House of Dionysos.
Designs range from this very early method of creating a face from various sized stones…
…to this image of a peacock framed in intricate patterns.
Star-shaped patterns and squares decorate a floor.
Different geometric designs are featured in this room’s 16-paneled floor.
This mosaic depicts the mythological love story of Pyramos and Thisbe.
House of Dionysos exterior excavation.

Paphos Harbour

After the tour, Tatiana gave us some time on our own to explore Paphos Harbour, a short walk from the archaeological park. With its idyllic setting, palm trees and boardwalk, the area exudes a summery vacation vibe. “Try the ice cream.” Tatiana suggested. “You can’t miss it!”

It turned out that there were several beachfront ice cream shops along Paphos Harbour as well as a Mr. Whippy ice cream truck in a nearby parking lot. We weren’t exactly sure what Tatiana had in mind, but we opted for mint chocolate chip cones at one of the shops and wandered along the boardwalk until it was time to leave for Kourion.

Paphos Harbour boardwalk.
I couldn’t help but smile at the Mr. Whippy truck.
View overlooking the boardwalk from the ice cream shop.

Kourion Archaeological Park

After a lunch stop at the aptly named Sunshine Tavern, we were ready for our final visit of the day to Kourion Archaeological Park. The ancient city-state dates to the 12th century B.C., but its oldest architectural discoveries – like those in Paphos – are from the Hellenistic period, around 325 B.C.

Our first stop in Kourion was another mosaic overload for the senses: The House of Eustolius. But unlike the House of Dionysos, this was a villa with a view. A curved wooden covering cleverly protects Eustolius’ mosaic floors while allowing the house to feel open to the sea. I found myself wandering away from the group on this tour, as if the wooden staircases along the mosaics were leading the way to the expansive views beyond.

View from the top of the walkway, overlooking mosaic floors and the sea beyond.
Detail and expansive scale of the mosaic floor.
Missing mosaic pieces are left untouched, like an unfinished jigsaw puzzle.
The far end of the villa…
…and the mosaic floor below.
A peaceful Mediterranean view.

The jewel in Kourion’s archaeological crown is surely the Greco-Roman Amphitheatre. Perched on a hillside overlooking the Mediterranean, the Amphitheatre seats 3,500 and boasts magnificent acoustics all the way to the back row. The original structure was constructed in the late second century B.C. and was later modified during the second century A.D. Musical performances and theatrical events are still held here today.

Entering the Amphitheatre.
Looking out onto the stage from our seats near the top.
Tatiana demonstrates the Amphitheatre’s fine acoustics.
Looking up from the stage…
…and one last glimpse of the tranquil setting.

    *     *     *     *     *

It was late afternoon when we left Kourion. The sun, ablaze all day in a bright azure sky, was now hanging low, ready to disappear along the Cyprus coast. There would be no time for granting requests at Aphrodite’s magical wishing rock. No possibility for eternal beauty on this visit. We had a ship to catch, and soon we would be bound for Israel.

2 Comments

  • Am so excited to find your blog!! Departing mid-April 2020, Abu Dhabi to Rome on Voyager and have not even studied excursions!! Cruise was booked in December 2018. Time doesn’t fly till it does. We should be at Cyprus May1.

    Thank you so much for sharing. I’ve not been especially excited for our upcoming adventure but your words and pictures have quickened my pulse and reminds me why we travel.

    • Maria, welcome to The Modern Postcard! I’m thrilled to know the blogs have been put to good use as you plan your upcoming travels. I will have stories and photos on every port we visited, so please be sure to watch for new posts or sign up for emailed posts as soon as they’re published (Never Miss A Post box on the sidebar). Also please feel free to email me (mary@themodernpostcard.com) if you have specific questions. It’s a fabulous itinerary and one of my all-time favorite trips 🙂

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