A Day in Marrakech: Morocco’s Captivating “Red City”

“Sweeping cobwebs from the edges of my mind

Had to get away to see what we could find…

Would you know we’re riding on the Marrakech Express?

They’re taking me to Marrakech.

All aboard the train.”  

~Crosby, Stills & Nash, Marrakech Express

Our Marrakech Express may have been a comfortable coach bus from Casablanca, and there were no “ducks and pigs and chickens calling,” as the famous song describes. But we were on our way just the same, heading to this intriguing city that lies beneath the foothills of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains.

It’s about a three-hour ride both ways. We left the port early, driving through the streets of downtown Casablanca before turning onto the A3 Highway, the direct route to Marrakech. Our chatty guide Mustafa – “call me Moose,” he requested – was holding court at the front of the bus, spinning tales about the city we were about to experience.

Marrakech is known as the red city because of its buildings constructed in red sandstone and is sometimes called the magic city, he explained. Founded in 1070 as the capital of the Almoravid Dynasty, it’s one of Morocco’s four royal cities, along with Fez, Rabat and Meknes, and is the country’s second-oldest city.

And then this word of caution from Moose: do not take photos of police or military personnel – it’s strictly prohibited.

The Road from Casablanca to Marrakech

The landscape along the entire stretch of A3 Highway is agricultural. Vast swaths of fields passed by, some brown and dormant-looking, others green and newly planted. Farmers were working the land, chatting with friends, keeping an eye on their animals. There were tree farms and houses close to the road and villages in the distance. At one point a train came into view, partially hidden by a rocky hillside.

We stopped once for a brief break, but mostly we kept moving. I held my camera the entire way, hoping to capture a little insight into life on the land between these two Moroccan cities. Here are some scenes, courtesy of my window on our Marrakech Express.

Koutoubia Minaret

Our first stop in Marrakech was Koutoubia Minaret, a city landmark that soars above the skyline. Built in 1195, the minaret is 253 feet tall and topped by a spire and copper-plated orbs. The adjacent Koutoubia Mosque, the largest in Marrakech, was founded in 1147 and rebuilt about ten years later. Non-muslims are not permitted inside.

The Souks of Marrakech

Walking into the Marrakech souks is a little like diving into the deep end of a pool for the first time. Herb and I have wandered through Arab markets in other parts of the world, but nothing could have prepared us for this literal labyrinth that is the largest in Morocco, with more than 3,000 market stalls.

The fact that this wasn’t a casual browsing experience, but rather a route to two destinations on our itinerary that were inside the maze, made it even more challenging. Our group followed Moose, who led his charges at a fast pace, turning down one lane and then another until I felt hopelessly confused about where we had entered.

It was especially unnerving because these narrow streets flanked by vendors on both sides are not pedestrian-only. Motorcycles darted around us, so close sometimes that I kept my toes as near to the vendors’ booths as possible!

We passed displays of lanterns, pottery, clothing, carpets and souvenirs – everything from expensive-looking silver goods to inexpensive-looking tchotchkes. Vendors are arranged by the type of products they sell, and I got the feeling that anything you might be looking for you could probably find here. You’d just have to know how to locate the booth and how to exit the souk when you’ve finished.

Medersa Ben Youssef

Medersa Ben Youssef is an Islamic school – known as a madrasa – founded in Marrakech in the 14th century. At one time it was the largest Islamic school in North Africa as well as a mosque and library. The school was abandoned in the 18th century and reopened in the 19th century. Although it no longer functions as a school, Medersa Ben Youssef became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its architecture and historical importance to Morocco.

Bahia Palace

Our tour of grand Islamic architecture continued with a stop at Bahia Palace –Arabic for brilliance. Built in the 1860s by Si Moussa, a former slave who rose to prominence as grand vizer of the sultan, the 150-room Bahia Palace lives up to its name, with beautiful details and stunning design filling the interior rooms as well as the gardens.

It was interesting to me how much newer this palace felt than the 14th-century Medersa Ben Youssef or the 9th-century Alhambra we had visited in Spain a few days earlier. There were remnants of the old Moorish architecture, to be sure, but Bahia Palace seemed lighter, more colorful and less ornate, perhaps an evolution in Islamic design.

Jemaa el-Fnaa

It was nearing sunset when we arrived at Jemma el-Fnaa, the main square in Marrakech’s old quarter. Moose gave us free time to explore on our own, with instructions to meet at a restaurant called L’étoile du Musée. He advised us not to wander into the souks leading from the square. “You will get lost, I promise,” he said most assuredly.

Jemma el-Fnaa was the picture I’d had in my mind when imagining Marrakech. It’s a chaotic mix of musicians, snake charmers, water sellers and food vendors in a carnival-like atmosphere that feels as if you’ve landed in another world. Moose had warned us to stay clear of the aggressive snake charmers and not to take close-up photos of anyone peddling something. “They will come after you for money!” he told us.

Herb and I walked from one end of the square to the other, hoping to capture the essence of the scene with photos and a video. It’s the music, I think, that will stay with me the most. A constant drumbeat and a type of horn that evokes an image of a snake being charmed out of a basket…a soundtrack from a long-ago movie from a faraway place.

A Parting Image

Our meeting spot at L’étoile du Musée turned out to be an oasis amid the noise, with its top-floor terrace that overlooks the activity on the square. Moose handed out boxed dinners for the drive to Casablanca, and we headed back through the crowd. By the time we reached the edge of Jemaa el-Fnaa, the sun had set, leaving a lasting image of a silhouetted minaret and palm trees bathed in an orange glow.

It had been quite a ride on the Marrakech Express.