“Who will buy this wonderful morning?

Such a sky you never did see.

Who will tie it up with a ribbon

And put it in a box for me?”

~ Lionel Bart, Who Will Buy?

I couldn’t believe the shades of blue. It was as if tablets of Easter egg dye were being dropped into the water, dissolving into the most luminous palette of sea tones. The spectrum kept changing with the light, looking sapphire one minute and aquamarine the next. Morning had broken, and we definitely weren’t in the Drake Passage anymore!

The Seabourn Quest had arrived in the South Shetland Islands, a group of Antarctic islands north of the Antarctic Peninsula. Our zodiac destination was Half Moon Island, home to an Argentine research station and a Chinstrap penguin colony of more than 3,000 pairs. Herb and I were assigned to the first group off the ship, and because of the Quest’s early arrival and favorable weather conditions, we were heading out a half-hour earlier than scheduled.

We gathered our gear and began getting ready: Four layers on top – a base layer, fleece layer, Seabourn puffy black jacket and waterproof orange parka; three layers on the bottom – a base layer, fleece layer and waterproof pants. Next came our neck gaiters, hats, life jackets and waterproof backpacks. We brought two pairs of socks – liners and heavy wool boot socks for the rental waterproof boots – and two pairs of gloves – liners that would be maneuverable for taking photos and bulky waterproof gloves.  Finally, we slipped our IDs into our white color group arm bands, put sunscreen on our faces and grabbed sunglasses and cameras. We were ready for Antarctica!

Getting into gear for Antarctica, from front…
…to back!

The wind was calm, the sun was shining and the temperature felt surprisingly warm as our zodiac sped to Half Moon Island. The expedition team had scouted the area in advance, marking “penguin highway” boundaries with orange rope and placing yellow flags by skua nests and other off-limit sites. The rocky and gravely terrain was fairly easy to navigate, with some icy spots and snow at the bottom of the colony.

Chinstrap penguin colony on Half Moon Island.
First landing in Antarctica!

The Chinstrap penguins were as much fun to watch as their fellow Falkland Island Kings had been. At a little over two feet tall, they moved extremely quickly, challenging us with their speed as we tried to keep cameras in focus. They would deftly hobble over rocky surfaces, going back and forth from colony to water’s edge, cleaning themselves before returning to the group. And with their “chinstrapped” faces giving the appearance of a perpetual smile, it was hard not to be enchanted!

A Chinstrap adult with an older chick…
…and another with two young chicks.
Moving quickly…
…talking loudly…
…looking out to sea…
…playing in the snow.
All cleaned up!

Half Moon Island offered a wonderful viewing spot for taking in the surrounding Antarctic scenery.  The craggy lichen-covered rocks, an old whaling boat abandoned on the beach and the red buildings of the Argentine research station in the distance created a moody and fascinating backdrop for our first experience in Antarctica.

Cámara Station, run by Argentina, was established on Half Moon Island in 1953 and operates in the summer.
An abandoned whaling boat sits along the shore.
Seabourn kayakers in the distance.

Before boarding the zodiac for the ride back to the ship, we stopped at the “guanomatic” stations positioned in shallow water, scrubbing our boots against stiff wooden brushes.

Herb and the “guanomatic.”
Making sure my boots were clean and guano-free!

The return trip was as swift and smooth as our ride to the island. The view from the back of the zodiac offered incredible perspective of the sheer vastness and wonder of where we were. The word surreal kept coming to mind as the stunning shades of blue swirled around us. I was already in love with the place…and it was only day one.


  • You are so right about the “Easter egg colors of blue”! What a fantastic day we all had, indeed! Loved the “guanomatic” bush photos and all of your varied penguin pictures, especially the penguin with older chick. The older chick (i.e “teenager?”) appears to be the one doing all the talking : )

  • Suzanne, I hadn’t thought of the older chick being a talking teenager – just love that! Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and perspective. I’m really happy to have you following along!

  • Lovely pictures…. on my bucket list… have to convince my wife first😁

    How cold does it feel as my wife is afraid of cold weather!!!
    We are from Australia….

  • Thank you so much, Dennis! If it is any comfort to your wife, about a quarter of the passengers on our cruise were from Australia 🙂 Temperatures are typically in the 30s F. We had three extremely sunny days, which never felt cold. Day 4 was snowy and overcast – I’m posting the story & photos here next week. Also keep in mind that you will be properly dressed in recommended layers! I brought hand warmers for my gloves and boots and never needed them.

    Antarctica is truly a trip of a lifetime. I can’t recommend it enough!

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