“Live in the sunshine, swim the sea,

Drink the wild air’s salubrity.”

~Ralph Waldo Emerson, Merlin’s Song

“Oh, I love going to the beach,” our Uber driver was saying as we rode through Sydney’s streets on a quiet Sunday morning. It was our last day in this city that had quickly won us over, and we were heading about thirty minutes to the coast to walk the infamous Bondi to Coogee Beach trail. Our Russian driver, as passionate about living in Sydney as everyone else we had met, filled us in on various beaches, and by the time he had finished, it sounded as if they all were pretty great.

I had purchased a downloadable trail map from Sydney Coast Walks and had planned to follow their recommendation to do the three-and-a-half-mile walk in reverse, from Coogee to Bondi (pronounced Bond-eye). The estimated time to reach Bondi was two hours, not including any stops.

“Although it’s more widely known as the Bondi to Coogee walk, we prefer to walk it in the other direction. We think the reveal of Bondi Beach makes it more exciting; more like you’ve arrived at your destination.”

~Ian and Tara Wells, Sydney Coast Walks

The map from Sydney Coast Walks provides details for each beach along the route, including cafés and photo stops.

The paved walkway at Coogee Beach was larger than I had envisioned. Trimmed in blue tiles with steps leading to the sand beyond, it was tempting to take a break there before we had even started.

Coogee Beach, our coastal walk starting point.
Coogee Pavilion, with outdoor seating and ocean views, is an enticing rest stop.

We followed the coastline north to Dolphin Point, where stairs lead to an open rock pool that was once known as Giles Baths. When the Giles Bath complex was demolished in 2002, the portico was preserved and later became a memorial to the Australian victims of the 2002 Bali terrorist attack.

The Giles Bath portico stands like a doorway to the sea. Inside, a poignant tribute to Australia’s victims of the 2002 Bali terrorist attack lines the walls.
Bali Memorial Sculpture at Dolphin Point.

The trail grew narrower, winding along the coast, weaving through neighborhoods, even veering inland for a brief time. Walkers and runners heading in both directions filled up the pathways. Dogs raced alongside their owners, some running off-leash, as if they knew the intricacies of the route by heart.

The terrain was also continually changing. Wooden walkways, concrete roads, stone steps, pebbly dirt paths. We never knew exactly what to expect around the next bend. It was fresh and invigorating and kept us completely “in the moment.” By the time we arrived at Gordons Bay, all we could do was smile.

On the steps near Gordons Bay.
Herb leading the way.
Paddleboarder at Gordons Bay.
Boatyard along the walk.
Lovely, lovely views.

We reached an open area filled with fisherman, swimmers and seagulls. Just beyond was Clovelly Beach, carved from a narrow bay between two rocky ridges. It was a peaceful, sheltered setting, surrounded by golden rolling hills, and seemed especially popular with families.

Shimmering sunlight on the Tasman Sea near Clovelly Beach.
A soft landing.
Clovelly Beach.

The next stop was the most unusual and unexpected of the walk. Waverley Cemetery, opened in 1877 on the clifftops of Bronte, clearly must claim a spot on the list of most beautiful resting places in the world. Filled with ornate monuments and graves of Australian politicians, authors, athletes and poets, its unique setting and local significance reminded me of La Recoleta in Buenos Aires.

Because of storm damage along this portion of the coastal walk in 2016, a detour had been routed through the middle of the cemetery, offering a chance to wander through Waverley before heading back on the main trail.

Coastal path through Waverley Cemetery.
Looking toward the hills…
…and toward the sea.
An understatement in serenity…
…and heavenly views.

We continued along the coast past Bronte Beach, another little haven of glorious sand and inviting crystalline waters, and on to a section called Gaerloch Reserve. The surrounding terrain was becoming more rugged, with unusual rock formations providing an abrupt contrast to the previous portions of the trail.

Bronte Beach.
View along the Gaerloch Reserve.
An interesting rock formation along Gaerloch Reserve…
…and another.

On the final stretch before reaching Bondi Beach, the trail wound past Bondi Icebergs Swimming Club and its stunning saltwater pool. Juxtaposed with surrounding waves from the sea, it’s one of the most beautiful swimming sites imaginable.

The Bondi Icebergs Club dates to 1920 and is open to the public in addition to its private memberships.
Looking down on the Bondi Icebergs Club pool from the coastal trail.

And just beyond Bondi Icebergs, in a truly glorious “reveal,” was Bondi Beach. We had reached the end of the trail.

Beautiful Bondi Beach.

It was a captivating setting, a moment of endless summer perfection spread out before us.

                                                                             *     *     *     *     *

Later that afternoon, we closed our suitcases and prepared for the next leg of our journey “down under.” I always find it difficult to leave a place that I’m just getting to know. I’m excited for what lies ahead, but hesitant to let go of new experiences, wanting to hold on until the memories are etched vividly in my mind. Sydney was an especially bittersweet goodbye.

The Seabourn Encore was docked at White Bay Terminal, ready to take us down Australia’s east coast to Melbourne and across the Tasman Sea to New Zealand. It was a beautiful sail-away, passing under the Sydney Harbour Bridge as we headed into the open sea. The setting sun was signaling a change, a fitting farewell to our time in Sydney. Maybe moving on wouldn’t be so hard after all.

Sailing under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Looking up.
Looking back.
Almost…
…sunset.

2 Comments

  • Hi Mary – I realize this is post is a few years old but I’m hoping you still monitor comments. I am so enjoying your beautiful writing and traveling along vicariously to these places that are all on my “must-see” list. Which to be fair is a pretty long list since my goal is to tour all seven continents. Your recent “Fernweh” blog post resonated deeply with me (and also taught me a new term!).

    I am in beginning stages of planning a similar cruise for my family for December 2021. Starting in Sydney and finishing in Auckland. Not on the Encore (although that is actually the only cruise ship my husband and I have ever been on and we loved it), but on the Regent Explorer. We would also have a few days in Sydney at the start and this beach walk looks right up our alley! Were you pleased that you had done the walk in “reverse” order as you described? And were you tempted to jump in the Bondi Icebergs pool? I don’t know if I could resist?!

    Take care, and thanks for providing many hours of virtual travel enjoyment.

  • Maureen, Your lovely comment just made my day…thank you so much! I’m delighted to know that you’re enjoying the blog and that “fernweh” resonated with you.

    Your upcoming cruise sounds wonderful. We have only sailed on Regent’s Voyager, but have heard fabulous reports about the Explorer. I was really happy that we spent a few days in Sydney before the cruise and can’t recommend the Bondi Beach Walk enough. Starting the walk in Coogee makes sense, I think, because it is a kind of dramatic “build up” to the spectacular sight of Bondi. And yes, I would have loved to have spent time in the Bondi Icebergs pool! That’s definitely doable if you have a full day there. There also are a variety of cafés and restaurants just beyond Bondi Beach where you could end your visit.

    Please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have other questions about the itinerary or other travel thoughts. I love your goal of touring all seven continents. It was an extraordinary personal moment when we reached that magic number in Luxor last fall. All the best, and have fun planning!

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