“Up there, time comes whole, then is divided into four months of dark, four months of light, and two seasons of twilight when the sun hangs at the horizon as though stuck between two thoughts.”
Gretel Ehrlich, This Cold Heaven: Seven Seasons in Greenland
In some places, Prince Christian Sund is so narrow that it feels as if you could reach out and touch the glaciers that drift by. The fjord-like waterway winds 60 miles through a passageway of steep mountains, icy blue glaciers and seemingly endless waterfalls as it makes its way between the Labrador Sea and the Irminger Sea. Named in honor of the prince and later king, Christian VIII of Denmark, the sund (Danish for “sound”) separates mainland Greenland from the islands of the Cape Farewell Archipelago.
This was our first glimpse of Greenland, and it was an introduction that went on for hours. Herb and I headed outside to the Observation Deck around 3 p.m., just as the Seabourn Sojourn was beginning its journey through the sund. Guest speaker Niki Sepsas provided commentary as we passed important geological and historical sites along the route. The air was cold, a moody layer of clouds hung over the sky… and it was impossibly beautiful.
After an hour or so, we returned to our cabin and watched Prince Christian Sund spin its wonder outside our balcony. I especially loved how the jagged mountains seemed to serve as doorways, surprising us with spectacular vistas as we’d round the next bend. We finally took a break for dinner, and when we returned, we could see colorful rooftops in the distance, a settlement of 90 people calleed Aappilattoq and the only inhabited spot on Prince Christian Sund. I tried to capture a photo, but darkness and distance got in the way.
By nightfall, the Sojourn had moved on and was heading to Nanortalik, our first stop in Greenland the next morning. It had been an extraordinary day cruising the waters of Prince Christian Sund, and I swear I could see those glorious shades of blue long after we’d left that ethereal world.
Beyond beautiful! Serene and mystic….:)
D
Thanks so much, Deb! Those are perfect words.🥰
Such a truly magnificent place and one that left a similarly deep impression on both of us. I loved the silence and stillness at the time but feel sure that I would not last more than a day or two in Aappilattoq!
Gill, I know what you mean! I can’t imagine living in a place with only 90 people and nowhere to go except along that little patch of land. Some hardy souls, indeed!
I have always eliminated Greenland from my itinerary list. Other posts have never described it as poetically as you have!
Jennifer
Wow, that’s so lovely, Jennifer. Many thanks! Prince Christian Sund is quite the poetic place, and definitely worth adding to your list!