“A fragile wilderness island in an urban sea.”
~Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve Trail Guide
The trails of Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve can be a bit of a tease. One moment the landscape is dotted with lush green pines and forest-like ferns. The next it appears to be a desert, filled with chaparral, sage scrub and rows of Prickly Pear cacti. On another trail, dramatic sculpted sandstone and orange-hued badlands come into view. And woven throughout are peeks of the glorious blue Pacific, culminating in panoramic coastline vistas.
The Reserve’s distinct ecosystems and diverse trails provide a wonderful environment for hiking and exploring. Located just north of San Diego between La Jolla and Del Mar, it’s a popular destination for locals and visitors. The eight miles of trails can get crowded, especially during the summer, and getting there early is always a good idea. When we arrived at the entrance on Torrey Pines Road shortly after the Reserve’s 7:15 a.m. opening, the lower parking lot was already beginning to fill up.
We headed up two levels of sand-packed steps and walked along a paved road lined with a variety of vegetation, including the namesake Torrey pine, the trees the Reserve was created to protect. Found only here and on California’s Santa Rosa Island, Torrey pines are considered the rarest pines in North America. At 25- to 50-feet-tall, they thrive in the area’s dry sandy soil and foggy ocean-front climate and are often gnarled and twisted by the coastal winds.
Our first stop was the Guy Fleming Trail, a 2/3-mile loop that offers scenic overlooks, sandstone formations and a forested habitat. Considered the Reserve’s flattest and easiest trail, it’s also the most popular and a great way to begin the morning.
Our next stop was the Parry Grove Trail, a half-mile loop of rugged terrain that includes one hundred steep, jagged stone steps with no handrail. We opted out of that section of the trail!
At the top of Torrey Pines Reserve, two trails wind their way from the same starting place and veer off in different directions. The aptly-named 3/4-mile Beach Trail gradually descends three hundred feet, ending with stairs that lead to the beach. Razor Point Trail stretches a half-mile to a lookout point, with stunning badlands, trees and gorges along the way. Both offer access to the also aptly-named idyllic viewing spot called Red Butte.
We continued south past the upper parking area along a paved road leading to the Torrey Pines Municipal Golf Course. Owned by the City of San Diego, the renowned Pacific-view course is open to the public. It hosts the annual Farmers Insurance Open on the PGA tour, and in 2008 it hosted the U.S. Open, famously won by Tiger Woods.
We headed back toward the Reserve and stopped at Torrey Pines Lodge, a 1922 adobe structure that serves as a Visitor Center and Ranger Station. Surrounded by native gardens, the Lodge houses a small museum featuring exhibits about the area and a book and souvenir shop. Docents are on hand to answer questions, and on weekends and holidays, guided nature walks are offered.
Before leaving the Reserve, we climbed High Point Trail, a short path with steps that lead to an overlook featuring panoramic views of the Pacific and lagoon.
It was late morning when we arrived back at the Reserve entrance. The fog had long ago burned off; gentle waves rolled slowly onto the sand. We couldn’t help but stay a little while before heading home. As we sat along the shore, a snowy egret suddenly appeared…a serendipitous ending to a lovely summer morning.