Lisbon Day 1: A Tale of Three Neighborhoods & A Tuk-Tuk Ride

Posted by on Jun 20, 2016 in Portugal | 12 Comments

Landing

“The value of things is not the time they last, but the intensity with which they occur. That is why there are unforgettable moments and unique people.”

~Fernando Pessoa

The line for the Number 28 Tram was already snaking past storefronts and apartment buildings when we arrived at the Praça do Martim Moniz. Our plan was to ride the tram to the São Jorge Castle, high on a hilltop overlooking the city, but even on an early May morning, the wait was long and arduous.

As we stopped to consider our options, a tuk-tuk driver named Antonio approached us, offering to take us to the castle and provide some commentary along the way. We agreed to a price, climbed in the back seat of the little red vehicle and headed off on what turned out to be a fast and fun way to navigate the old city. We wove through sliver-like streets, up hilly and tight-cornered slopes, past ornately tiled facades. Antonio pointed out various sights as we made our way to the castle entrance, even stopping to show us what he called “the best viewpoint in Lisbon.” It was a memorable ride and another lesson in being flexible when traveling: Sometimes the best experiences are because something else didn’t work out.

Tuk-tuk

View from the back seat of our tuk-tuk, as we passed the line of tourists waiting for Tram Number 28.

Tuk-tuk Antonio

Our delightful tuk-tuk driver Antonio, near the entrance to São Jorge Castle.

The Alfama District

The castle’s biggest attraction is the View Terrace, called the Miradouro de São Jorge. Panoramic vistas of Lisbon’s iconic red roofs spread out to the River Tagus, showcasing the 25 de Abril Bridge, the Praça do Comércio and other landmarks. It’s a wonderful way to get an overview of the city, and arriving early in the morning offers an unhurried look at lovely Lisbon before the crowds arrive.

Castle View Main

Castle View Square

View of the Praça do Comércio from the castle terrace.

Castle View Bridge2

The 25 de Abril Bridge can almost be mistaken for San Francisco’s Golden Gate!

We wandered along the ramparts and beautiful stone arches and explored the castle grounds. The Moorish São Jorge has the medieval feel that you’d expect from a castle, juxtaposed with its stunning backdrop of a view and its peaceful, almost sanctuary-like setting.

Castle Grounds 1

Castle Grounds 2

Castle Grounds 3

As we walked through the castle grounds, we began hearing loud noises that sounded like extremely hungry cats. Suddenly the “cats” began appearing on the walls and paths around us, and we quickly learned to identify the sounds of peacocks! The beautiful birds confidently moved around the tourists, as if to let us know that they were the real residents of São Jorge Castle.

Castle Peacock 2

Castle Peacocks

Castle Peacock 3

We left the castle and began walking downhill through the streets of the Alfama District, getting an up-close experience of the medieval maze we had seen from our tuk-tuk ride. The Alfama is one of those places that is almost impossible to navigate with a map, yet somehow the sights you’re looking for seem to appear around the next corner.

Alfama 6

Alfama Alt

Colorful streamers were strung throughout the Alfama in preparation for the upcoming St. Anthony’s Day Festival.

Alfama 7

Alfama 4

ALfama 5

One of the Alfama stops for the Number 28 Tram.

Alfama 8

These tiles and balconies looked more like pages from a storybook than the facade of a building!

We stopped at the Miradouro de Santa Luzia – another wonderful lookout point – and found the 18th-century tiles that decorate the walls of the square’s church. We peeked in the open doors of the 12th-century Sé Cathedral. It was Saturday, and the church steps were filled with families dressed up and waiting for what appeared to be first communion services. And we found the restaurant where we had been hoping to have lunch, Restaurante Santo Anónio de Alfama. With its charming courtyard and welcoming interior, it was the perfect stop before continuing on our walking tour.

Santa Luzia 1

Eighteenth-century tiles on the exterior walls of  Santa Luzia Church depict the Praça do Comercio before the 1755 earthquake…

Santa Luzia 2

…and an attack at São Jorge Castle in 1147.

Se Cathedral

Lunch 3

Herb at our table at Restaurante Santo António de Alfama.

The Baixa District

After lunch we headed to the Baixa District and Praça do Comércio, the waterfront “commercial square” we had seen in a distance from the castle terrace. It’s a grand space – much larger than I had envisioned – lined with yellow-painted buildings and a statue of King José I. The square was Portugal’s center of trade and the site of its royal palace until it was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. The Marquês de Pombel, who rebuilt Lisbon after the earthquake, is featured on a medallion on the King José I statue and also on the square’s majestic Rua Augusta Arch.

Praca do Comercio 5

The vast open space of Praça do Comércio.

Praca do Comercio 4

Selfie on the Praça!

Praca do Comerico 2

The beautiful Rua Augusta Arch is topped with statues depicting Glory, Valor and Genius.

Praca do Comercio 3

Under the Arch.

Under the arcades just east of the Arch is the Café Martinho da Arcada, a coffee bar and restaurant founded in 1782, known for two Portuguese treasures: pastéis de nata custard tarts and poet/writer Fernando Pessoa. I discovered Pessoa’s work while doing research for our trip and became intrigued with his writings and his life. While Fitzgerald and Hemingway were discussing the issues of the day in 1920s Paris, Pessoa was writing in Lisbon, holding court at the Café Martinho da Arcada, where his image is quietly reflected on tiles in a corner of the coffee bar.

Cafe Martinho 1

Cafe Martinho 2

Cafe Martinho 3

My pastel de nata was served with a shaker of cinnamon and encouragement from the waiter to sprinkle as much as I wanted in order to enjoy the full flavor of the tart!

Reenergized from our fabulous Portuguese pastry break, we continued walking through the Baixa, stopping at the Praca Dom Pedro IV, also known as Rossio Square. With its stunning fountains, towering statue, train station and national theatre, Rossio is an impressive spot.

Rossio 1

Two Baroque “mermaid” fountains anchor each end of Rossio Square.

Rossio 2

I loved the Rossio Square paving stone. And yes, it really is flat…just an optical illusion!

Rossio 3

Rossio Railway Station.

National Theatre 2

Dona Maria II National Theatre.

The Barrio Alto-Chiado Districts

From Rossio we headed to the Elevador da Glória, a funicular railway that climbs a steep hillside to the Barrio Alto-Chiado neighborhoods. It’s a quaint little trip and a fun way to reach the hilltop if the wait isn’t too long.

Elevador do Gloria

The Elevador da Glória at the top of the Barrio Alto.

Our first stop at the top was São Roque Church, a 16th century masterpiece of Baroque art. When we walked in, an organist was rehearsing The Wedding March. It was a magnificent sound and a magnificent space.

Sao Roque Church 1

The Baroque organ has 1694 pipes and was built in 1784. It was moved to the São Roque choir gallery in the 1890s.

Sao Roque Church 4

The church’s humble and unassuming exterior is in sharp contrast…

Sao Roque Church 2

...to its elaborately adorned interior…

Sao Roque Church 3

Next we passed the viewing point of the Elevador de Santa Justa, designed by an architect who studied under Gustav Eiffel. The view from the entry ramp is free and offers more stunning images of Lisbon.

Santa Justa View 1

Not quite “tiled out,” we found the Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, home to an interesting building covered in yellow and orange tiled images that depict mythological images of Earth, Water, Science, Agriculture, Commerce and Industry. Dating from 1863, the building is topped with the design of an eye in the center of a star, symbolizing the Creator of the Universe.

Largo Pinheiro 1

Largo Pinheiro 3Largo Pinheiro 2

Our final stop was the Rua Garett, a street known for its shops and restaurants that blend old- and new-world Lisbon. We happened upon a parade, with trumpeters on horseback and costumed musicians. I waited in line at the Café A Brasileira terrace to take a photo by the Fernando Pessoa statue – another of his writing-and-discussing hangouts – where his table and likeness are immortalized in bronze. I bought a book of his poetry – written in Portuguese on the left-hand page with English translations on the right – at Bertrand bookstore, which has been open for business since 1732 and bills itself as “the oldest bookshop in the world.” It was an unimaginably wonderful ending to a first day in Lisbon, where the soul of the city’s past seemed to seep into my veins. And in a strange way, a place I previously had known so little about had become important and meaningful and even loved.

Parade

Lampost Ship

A lampost on Rua Garrett decorated with a sailing ship.

A Brasileira 2

Hanging out with Fernando Pessoa on the terrace at Café A Brasileira.

12 Comments

  1. Christi
    June 20, 2016

    Beautiful! On my bucket list! Thanks for sharing.

    • Mary
      June 20, 2016

      Thank you, Christi! It’s definitely worthy of the bucket list!

  2. The Modern Postcard Lisbon Day 2: Beautiful Belém & The Land of the Explorers - The Modern Postcard
    June 23, 2016

    […] Back outside, we headed to the Rua de Belém, the town’s main street, to find the Casa Patéis de Belém, birthplace of patéis de nata – known here as the Pastel de Bélem – baked from an “ancient secret recipe” since 1837. After our first taste of the delicious custard tarts at Café Martinho da Arcada, we were eager to have a second Portuguese pastry break! (Lisbon Day 1: A Tale of Three Neighborhoods & A Tuk-Tuk Ride.) […]

  3. Erin
    June 26, 2016

    Really enjoyed this as it helped to visualize part of what I am planning for the two-day visit we will have to Lisbon next year.

    • Mary
      July 11, 2016

      Hello again Erin! Well…better late than never. This magically appeared just after your other lovely comment on my Lisbon Day 2 post! Thank you again. I’m so glad it helped with your planning, and I appreciate the feedback!

  4. Judy
    July 14, 2016

    Thank you…I am enjoying reading your travel blog and it’s giving me ideas and also adding to the excirtement of our upcoming trip!

    We will be on a cruise in Oct. with only 1 day in Lisbon, 11-8. We have been planning a DIY day,. but a fellow cruiser is organzing the walking tour described below. What are your thoughts? We’re both in good physical shape and walking is not difficult for us. I want to see things, but also want to linger and soak up the atmosphere of the city. One thing holding me back from this tour is that we dock at 11 and the tour begins at 1…I consider this wasted port time. And I do agree with you, often the best days are the ones with the least amount of plans. The tram line looked horrendous and the tuk tuk a wonderful alternative!!
    Here’s the tour offered by Lisbon Spirit:
    Come aboard the most famous tram in Lisbon that will take us on an adventure across the narrow streets of the old town. To start, prepare yourself for one of the best views over the city and the river.
    By foot, we will go beyond the tram route to explore the most interesting places of the hill where the city was born. You´ll feel the life of the oldest flea market – the famous Feira da Ladra. Get a close look at some historical buildings like Sé de Lisboa, the medieval cathedral in which walls remain a thousand years of History and the impressive architecture of Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora (Saint Vincent Monastery) . You´ll also discover the legend behind Panteão Nacional (National Pantheon), with the most iconic dome in Lisbon´s skyline.

    We will guide you through the maze of the traditional neighborhood of Alfama – walking the narrow and steepy streets that lead to small squares, witnessing the true way of living of the inhabitants and getting to know more about Fado, the traditional portuguese music.

    The cost is 20-35E depending on the number ont he tour…2-10 people.

    Thanks in advance for your ideas and opinion. ~~Judy

    • Mary
      July 14, 2016

      Wow, Judy, that’s tough to fit in so much in such a short amount of time. I definitely agree that you would be frustrated waiting two hours for a tour to begin! I would either book a private tour/guide that would tailor an itinerary to what you want to do or take a taxi or tuk-tuk to the castle and go on your own from there. Taxis are very easy to find and very reasonable. The tuk-tuk was a lot of fun! And yes, the tram line was horrendous, even early in the morning! The good news is that the port is close to everything. If you’d have any other thoughts or questions, please fee free to email me at mary@themodernpostcard.com. Thanks so much for stopping by!

  5. Judy
    July 15, 2016

    Mary, thanks so much for your time and thoughts in replying. I think we’ll take advantage of hiring a tuk tuk and do Lisbon on our own at our own pace. ~~Judy

    • Mary
      July 15, 2016

      You’re very welcome, Judy! That sounds like a great plan. Lisbon is such an interesting city…you will have a wonderful time! Just be sure to take a break and have one of those fabulous Portuguese pastries 🙂

  6. Judy
    July 16, 2016

    Mary, one more question. My DH really thinks a tuk tuk is the way to go for a couple of hours in Lisbon and then we can end the tour where we want to spend more time walking. Do you suggest booking a tour or just hiring a tuk tuk that we see on the street? Hopefully some will converge at the port gates. If we hire off the street what should we expect to pay per hour? It looks like the organized tours are about 100E for 2 hrs. Thanks so much!! ~~Judy

    • Mary
      July 17, 2016

      Hi Judy, Our tuk-tuk experience was a destination ride and not a tour, so I’m not familiar with pricing. If you hire off the street, you can negotiate a price and decide if the driver is a good fit. I checked Trip Advisor, which has reviews of several tuk-tuk companies that you can book in advance and get pricing upfront. That might be a good idea with a tight timeframe. Just be sure to end the tour at the TOP of a hill – such as at the castle – so you can work your way down on your walk!

  7. The Modern Postcard Lisbon Day 2: Beautiful Bélem and the Land of the Explorers
    August 6, 2016

    […] Back outside, we headed to the Rua de Belém, the town’s main street, to find the Casa Patéis de Belém, birthplace of patéis de nata – known here as the Pastel de Bélem – baked from an “ancient secret recipe” since 1837. After our first taste of the delicious custard tarts at Café Martinho da Arcada, we were eager to have a second Portuguese pastry break! (Lisbon Day 1: A Tale of Three Neighborhoods & A Tuk-Tuk Ride.) […]