Nanortalik, Greenland: “Place of Polar Bears”

I was taking a photo of an iceberg reflecting in the waters just off our balcony when a thunderous sound rang through the early morning stillness. I immediately knew the iceberg was beginning to “calve” and switched from camera to video as quickly as I could to capture the moment.

This was a much smaller – and less dangerous! – experience than the iceberg Herb and I had encountered in Antarctica when our zodiac happened to pass by as it began to collapse. But no matter the size or volume, it’s a fascinating act of nature to witness. And both times, it was simply the luck of being there at just the right moment… something quite magical and impossible to plan.

The Seabourn Sojourn was anchored off Nanortalik, Greenland’s most southerly town. It’s also the country’s eleventh largest, with a population of a little over 1,000 residents. In Greenlandic, its name means “place of polar bears” or “where the polar bears go.” All transport here is by boat or plane; there are no roads connecting any towns in Greenland.

The first thing you notice are the colorfully painted buildings, a theme that seems to be common in this part of the world. Our guide in Heimaey, Iceland, told us that theories abound on the use of different colored paints. It could have been a way to brighten the long winters; or it was an idea someone started and his neighbors soon followed; or it was simply a way to distinguish one house from another. Whatever the origin, it seems to be a challenge in the far north to find two houses painted exactly the same way.

Scenes from Nanortalik

Herb and I rode the ship’s tender to the dock, planning to explore Nanortalik on our own. A local gentleman was sitting on a bench, playing his guitar and singing in Greenlandic, a lovely welcome as we walked into town.

Nanortalik Open Air Museum

The main attraction in Nanortalik is the Open Air Museum, living history exhibits housed in various old buildings that once served as town businesses. There is a bakery, a radio station, a hospital, and even a “blubber room.” Admission is 60 Danish Krone or 10 USD or 10 Euro – cash only. We bought our wristband tickets in a museum building that also displays artifacts from the town’s history.

Back outside, we showed our wristbands to an attendant who was sitting at a sort of makeshift entrance to the outdoor buildings and began our tour. Both Herb and I were surprised by how interesting the museum was and how thoughtfully it had been put together. We covered quite a bit of ground, looking for buildings with open doors that were part of the museum.

A Final Thought

From its rocky, treeless landscape to the long, cold winters, to being completely cut off by road from the rest of the country, Nanortalik impressed me as a challenging place to live. I greatly admire the spirit of the people who call this part of the world home and who proudly celebrate its heritage.

But I found moments of beauty here, too, with abundant fields of yellow wildflowers dotting the landscape and coastal waters rimming the shoreline. Looking back through my photos, there were two that stood out in my memory… places that caused me to stop and take in my surroundings.

Maybe it’s the color blue that I love so much, but these are the images I will think of most of all when I remember the day we spent walking in Nanortalik.