Nordkapp, Norway: Taking It All In at the Top of the World

“Here I am at Nordkapp, at the edge of Finnmark, and I dare say the very edge of the world, since there are no other places further north inhabited by man.”

~Francesco Negri, Viaggio Settentrionale (published posthumously), 1700

Nordkapp, Norway. I had been anticipating standing at the proverbial top of the world ever since seeing photos of the striking globe monument with views out to sea. In my mind, Nordkapp would be a full-circle moment in our travels; along with Antarctica and the equator, we would have stood at the bottom, middle and top of the world. Metaphorically, at least!

Nordkapp – the North Cape in English – sits on the northern coast of the island of Magerøya and is the northernmost point in Europe connected to the mainland by road. Technically, a point called Knivskjellodden is the actual northernmost point in continental Europe, about one mile further than Nordkapp, but it can only be reached on foot on a 5.6-mile hike. Norway’s Svalbard archipelago is also farther north, but it’s not on mainland Europe.

We would be traveling to Nordkapp from Honningsvåg, a port town on the southeastern side of Magerøya. As the Seabourn Ovation sailed into port, Herb and I stood on our verandah, not quite believing our good weather fortune. In a place known for rain, wind and overcast skies, we were greeted with sunshine and bright blueness. Our tour wasn’t for a couple of hours, and we crossed our fingers that the weather would hold for the drive north.

A Walk Through Honningsvåg

Herb and I headed out for a walk through Honningsvåg, population about 2,500. Just outside the cruise ship dock, a Tourist Information office, Arctic Souvenir shop and an extremely large troll greet visitors. There are two main streets, one that winds along the waterfront and the other running parallel a block or so inland. Our ship of about 550 passengers was the only one in port – a great sign, we later learned, as the little town had recently dealt with 10,000 visitors in one day.

The Road to Nordkapp

By mid-afternoon, it was time to board the bus to Nordkapp. It’s about a 45-minute drive past desolate brown hills, mountain lakes and grazing reindeer. A guide on board pointed out various sights along the way and further confirmed how lucky we were to have such beautiful weather. A couple of days earlier, she told us, all Nordkapp tours were cancelled because it was too windy for the buses to safely make the drive.

The Top of the World

Nordkapp sits on a 1,007-foot-high cliff topped with a large flat plateau. It was named by English navigator and arctic explorer Steven Borough, captain of the Edward Bonaventure, who sailed past the cliff in 1553 in search of the Northeast Passage shipping route. In 1664, Italian priest Francesco Negri became the first person known to have traveled to Nordkapp. King Oscar II, Union King of Norway and Sweden, visited in 1873, and in 1956 the first road to Nordkapp was built.

I was surprised by how vast the area seemed, and with just a couple of groups from our cruise and a few independent travelers, it felt as if we had the place to ourselves. Herb and I exchanged photo duties with another couple from the ship, taking in the gorgeous views and the experience of simply being there.

In addition to the globe, several other monuments are scattered around Nordkapp. An obelisk honoring King Oscar II sits at one end of the plateau, and the Milestone Monument points out to sea at the other end. A series of circles called Barn av Jorden – Children of the Earth – created by seven children from different parts of the world stands near the Mother and Child sculpture.

North Cape Hall

When it comes to visitor centers, North Cape Hall is truly first-rate. The lower levels feature a museum with exhibits about Nordkapp’s history, a most unusual chapel and a film about the seasons at Nordkapp which friends had raved about and we had forgotten to take in – waffles and postcards are my only excuse for missing what clearly was a wonderful film! The gift shop is worth visiting, if for no other reason than buying stamps and postcards and dropping them into a special mailbox. The North Cape Hall staff collects the mail and hand-stamps each postcard with a special Nordkapp stamp before mailing them.

The restaurant is also a great diversion, with views looking out over Nordkapp. Our guide had recommended the waffles, which were made to order at station with various jam toppings. It seemed like the perfect way to end our day at the top of the world.

Later That Night

As we sailed southward, the Seabourn Ovation slowly passed Nordkapp, offering a chance for photos from a different perspective as well as a moment to say farewell. It was a spine-tingly feeling to look up and see the globe where we had stood and the people who were now taking our places. Herb zoomed his long camera lens on the plateau to get a better look. Lights were on at North Cape hall, and a crowd had gathered just beyond the globe at the edge of the cliff.

And then suddenly, as if on cue, the midnight sun decided to put on a show of its own.