It has been six weeks since returning from France, and I’m still looking back with a bit of wonder at how well everything worked out.

With parts of the world slowly beginning to open up and the plethora of ever-changing Covid protocols, it was a precarious time to venture beyond the borders of our home country. These were uncharted waters, and we took many deep breaths as we made our plans.

I’ve put together a few thoughts and tips that may be helpful for anyone traveling internationally. Keep in mind that these are fluid times and that anything can change or even become obsolete as soon as I write this. My reflections are based solely on our experiences in France in late September 2021.

Choosing Where to Travel

When the trip we’d been planning for two years to South Africa was cancelled in May – six months before we were scheduled to leave – I wasn’t sure we’d be traveling anywhere this year. But the thought of another year of lost travel really saddened me, and I began looking for options that seemed possible and maybe even probable. When I happened upon a Seine River cruise that included a special access, before-it-opens-to-the-public tour of Giverny, I was smitten with that joyful travel spirit once again.

Herb and I thought it made sense to keep our plans as simple as possible. One flight. One country. The cruise was seven days, and with our decision to spend three days in Paris on our own, we would be away less than two weeks. Enough time to dip our toes in the post-pandemic waters and see how we felt.

Until the day we left home, I held my breath every morning as I checked my email. I was certain that the cruise would be canceled or that our flight would be changed. Or worst of all, that France would change its mind and not let us in the country.

Special access to Monet’s Gardens in Giverny, the spark that ignited our trip.

The Flight to Paris

We flew Air France from Los Angeles to Charles de Gaulle Paris. Covid vaccines were required to enter France, but we did not need to take a Covid test. Everyone on board was required to wear a surgical mask during the entire nine-and-a-half-hour flight, except, of course, when eating. Cloth masks were not accepted, and the flight attendants offered a proper mask to anyone who didn’t have one.

We had no issues with flight cancellations or rescheduling, but we met several people on our river cruise who had stories to tell about the flight reshuffling they went through to get to Paris. One gentleman from Southern California arrived on the riverboat shortly before we were ready to sail. Two of his flights had been cancelled – the second one was cancelled after he had arrived at the airport. He had also flown Air France from LAX.

Herb and I always arrive several days ahead of time before boarding a cruise. It’s a big help with jetlag and gives us time to explore a city on our own. It may be wise to add an extra day ahead of any scheduled plans when traveling right now.

Sunrise out my window.

Tourist Life in Paris

About a month before our trip, France changed its status for U.S. visitors from green to orange. A vaccine QR code called the Pass Sanitaire was now required to enter museums, cafés or restaurants. Herb and I applied online, submitting the requested copies of our U.S. vaccine cards, passports and airline tickets. After waiting several weeks, we both received emails stating that the system was overwhelmed and that we would not be getting our passes.

Our plan was to try to obtain passes in Paris, but it turned out that our U.S. vaccine cards were accepted everywhere in the city as well as in the towns we visited on the river cruise. The French took vaccinations quite seriously, checking our cards for the dates and brands of vaccines, sometimes taking a photo of our cards. It was quite comforting knowing that everyone around us in a café had been vaccinated.

Two days before our cruise ended, I received an email stating that I had been approved for a Pass Sanitaire. A week after we returned home, Herb received his.

Our U.S. vaccination cards were honored everywhere we ate in Paris.

Life on the River Cruise

Everyone on our river cruise – staff, crew and guests – was required to be vaccinated. This was a huge incentive for our willingness to travel with a group and spend time in the close quarters of a riverboat. Masks were required in public areas, except when dining or on the top Sun Deck. Everyone was incredibly cooperative. I think we were all so giddy about traveling again, that we were happy to comply with any rules!

Masks were also required when touring indoor sites – as they had been in Paris. The added difference was that on several outdoor tours, they were also mandatory. One of our guides explained that she could be fined if she led a group that wasn’t compliant. The rules seemed to be based on the place we were visiting. Once the tour was over and we were on our own, we could remove our masks.

Our riverboat, the Ms. Sapphire, docked in Les Andelys, France.

A Special Time

The biggest surprise to us was the lack of crowds. It felt as if we had the entire city of Paris to ourselves. And on our riverboat, it was a real treat to be two of just 32 passengers. We all joked about being on a private yacht, but the truth was that we sort of were. The Tauck team didn’t let the small number of guests alter any plans, and they seemed genuinely thrilled to be back on the river.

A crowd-free walk in Luxembourg Gardens and view of the Panthéon in the distance.

In Case of Emergency, Break Out This Packing Cube

In order to return to the United States, we were required to be tested for Covid within 72 hours of our flight. The thought of being asymptomatic but testing positive or receiving a false positive test was always in the back of my mind. If that occurred, we would be required to quarantine in Paris for two weeks.

To prepare for this worst-case scenario, Herb and I packed two additional weeks’ worth of medications and a few extra clothes – mostly exercise items that didn’t take up much room and could easily be washed in a hotel sink. We put everything in separate packing cubes that we wouldn’t need to open unless our stay was extended.

My other fear was that because the test would be administered before our last stop in Giverny, if I were positive, I would miss my main reason for the trip! If that happened, we decided we would take the train to Giverny after our quarantine was over. For me, having back-up plans is a real comfort, and I am continually reminded of one of our travel packing mantras: When in doubt, throw it in!

Tauck arranged for a nurse to administer Covid tests on the ship. The morning after our test when were walking back to our cabin after breakfast, I saw the nurse boarding the riverboat. “Oh no!” I said to Herb. She’s coming to tell me I tested positive!” In reality, she was on board to test the next group of passengers who were leaving Paris a day later.

Happily, everyone in our group had a negative test.

The golden ticket for getting home.

A Final Thought

There are a few more preparations and hurdles to overcome when traveling internationally right now. You need to be flexible, willing to compromise at a moment’s notice and extremely vigilant about the latest updates that could impact your destinations.

And then there is the issue of wearing masks. It is far from ideal, especially when meeting new people and wanting to recognize their faces. Or when walking into a shop or café and having your smile, well, masked. I learned quickly to show appreciation and friendliness with my eyes and voice, but a smile just can’t be replaced.

These inconveniences were small, compared with the option of waiting to travel until the world returns to “normal times.” I think it boils down to weighing the risks and compromises with your heart’s desire. For me – and I imagine for all of us who love to explore the world – the choice is an easy one.

18 Comments

  • Mary,
    Very helpful information. Glad you two had a nice trip. Did you carry a digital version of your vaccination or a paper version? Thanks in advance.

    • Jason, I’m so happy you found this helpful! We had both versions of our vaccination records with us, but the one that was always requested was the little white card. I know that one person in our group had tried to use the U.S. digital version, but it was not accepted. The French Pass Sanitaire seemed to be the only digital record that worked. We also carried copies of our passports as back-up identification for the vaccine card, but we never needed to use them. The best thing to do, I believe, is bring everything that you can possibly think of…and then be pleasantly surprised if you don’t need all of it!

      • Thank you Mary for the update. Even though we won’t be traveling internationally any more, it’s helpful to hear you were successful. And when in doubt….I pack half a pharmacy of ‘what if’ items. My husband has always laughed, until two cruises ago when he bumped into the corner of a wall hanging, tearing open a big patch of bleeding skin on his arm. Had I not been carrying antiseptic ointment and giant-sizes bandages, we would have been in the ship’s infirmary for long into the night, with a hefty bill for the patching up.

        • Robin, I’m sorry to hear that your international travel has been curtailed. I think your “half a pharmacy” advice is also wise for short treks or travels within one’s own country. Even if a medical clinic is nearby or there isn’t a language barrier, it’s still really helpful to have some go-to items on hand rather than spending precious travel time tracking down a pharmacy. Thanks so much for sharing here!

  • Just dandy, Mary! We’re still booked on the June Bilbao to Belfast cruise, and Kathy’s taking an optimistic shot at trying for an April Philippines dive trip–in both cases, your notes will be very helpful. Thanks again–and may Monet or other artists guide you into more enjoyable and safe trips in the near future. Eric

    • Thanks, Eric! I’m keeping my fingers crossed for your June travels – and for Kathy’s dive trip as well. It’s hard to imagine that both won’t happen, but things that seem so far off have a way of creeping up quickly, don’t they? Monet was a pretty great travel guide…I’m not sure I can find a better one, but I like the idea. 🙂

  • Thank you for that helpful information. Not sure if it will convince Andrea but with your help I am ready. Glad you and Herb had a great time. Looking forward to more from you. Thanks again. Jay

    • Thanks so much, Jay. I’m glad to know this was helpful and hopefully, maybe even a little convincing for Andrea! From our experience, if you’re willing to pack your suitcase with patience, flexibility and back-up plans, traveling in these times is surprisingly wonderful!

        • That’s so nice to know, Jay. Thank you! I’m not much of a “returner” when it comes to travel, inspired more by roads not taken and places I’ve yet to explore, but Paris is a huge exception to that philosophy! It was truly wonderful to have a chance to return, and I hope you will be able to as well. Happy travels!

          • Mary, Your blog had awoken a new desire to return to Paris. Let’s see where it goes.

            Thanks again,

            Jay

  • This is great information to know. My brother asked me last night if I wanted to go to the UK in May (spirits willing) and I’ll keep your information in mind as it gets closer. Love the idea of the “just in case” packing cube.

    • Elaine, I’m so glad this was helpful to you! The “just in case” packing cube was a great comfort – knowing it was there, but not having to think about it during the trip. It was also nice to have a few clean clothes to unpack when we returned home!

  • Oh Mary, how I enjoy your thoughtful comments and so impressive photography. I’m beginning to feel more hesitant as we have booked a cruise to the Medit, with Greece, Italy, and our new country Turkey. We also missed a cruise through the British Isles, Scotland, Ireland etc during the 2020 Pandemic. We are tickled to go this time the end of Marchs 2022, so we’ll still be in early Spring so not as hot as when we were there in July years ago. My concern is hearing that you had so many worries, concerns, etc for all the stars to align correctly so the whole trip would happen, and it did for you. Any major changes you would forsee, or covering a variety of countries and Princess cruise stability? I’m open to think of anything to help us be prepared. Thank you again for you lovely insights.

    • Carol, thank you so much for the kind words! I’m delighted that you’re enjoying the blog 🙂 It’s a tough call to know what travel will look like in March, but I would bet that it will only get smoother. We traveled to France just as the country was opening up, and “star alignment” – as you so aptly put it! – was really critical. The best advice I can think of is to keep an eye on what is going on in the countries you’ll be visiting. Their government websites as well as the U.S. State Department’s should be a big help. I’m sure that Princess will alert its guests to any issues or itinerary changes as well as Covid testing requirements as it gets closer to sailing.

      It should be a lovely time of year to visit Greece, Italy and Turkey. If you will be in Kusadasi and are looking for a guide in Ephesus, please feel free to email me or check out my Turkey blog posts or Travel Resources page for the link. The guide we happened to book turned out to be a real find and continues to get wonderful reviews.

      Best of luck with your plans. From our experience, if you’re willing to be flexible and know that you may encounter an inconvenience or two, it’s an extraordinary time to travel!

  • Jay, I’m happy to have offered a bit of Paris inspiration! You are sure to have a fabulous time, no matter when you take the plunge. All the best to you and Andrea 🙂

  • Mary, I have just completed reading all your posts from February 2020! I had neatly filed them in a folder ‘Mary’s Blog’.
    What a joy to treat myself to opening each adventure to experience traveling with you and Herb. Celebrating the 7th continent, Petra the lost city in the desert, camel ride near the pyramids and the Nile. I have now saved your new and revised
    ‘Destinations’ to relive your travels. I so enjoyed the autumn riverboat trip in France and my deep fernweh is satisfied. As you my guess I am enjoying retirement!

    • I’m so happy to hear from you, Nancy! And I’m especially honored that you’ve organized almost two year’s worth of blog posts into a special folder 🙂 I absolutely treasure the experiences you mention here and am delighted to have helped calm that pesky fernweh, even though I’m quite certain it will return. It’s great to know that you’re enjoying retirement. I wish you continued happiness and all the best in 2022!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.