The rain was relentless, pounding down from the sky, catching in the wind and blowing every which-way. We had arrived in St. John’s in the middle of a storm and were heading out on a tour to Cape Spear, the easternmost point in continental Canada and North America.
I didn’t have much hope for the day, but a ray of sunshine named Lee welcomed us on the bus and assured us that he would do his best to keep us entertained – and laughing! – despite the weather. He also explained that St. John’s had gone months without rain and has been battling wildfires, quickly putting our disappointment in perspective.
A cab driver by day, Lee moonlights as a tour guide, sharing his love for the place he has always called home with everyone he meets. His voice and humor and friendly demeanor reminded me of the late Canadian actor John Candy. He literally had our group laughing out loud as he told story after story, mixing in St. John’s history with his tales of grown up here.
Jellybean Row
Newfound and Labrador is the easternmost province of Canada, comprising the island of Newfoundland and the continental region of Labrador. St. John’s is the province capital and largest city. It is also Canada’s oldest city, discovered in 1497 by Italian explorer John Cabot.
Before heading to our first stop, Lee gave us a tour of the city, pointing out places we might be interested in visiting later in the day. I was especially curious about the colorful houses on Jellybean Row that I’d seen in photos. But Lee explained that Jellybean Row is not a specific street. “The houses are literally all over town,” he told us. The colors live up to their most appropriate name, and I captured a few through my rain-drenched window.
Signal Hill
Our first stop was Signal Hill, the place where Guglielmo Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless message. Sent in 1901 from Cornwall, England, the message was the letter “S” in Morse Code. Signal Hill is named for its original role as the place used for flag signaling by the British military and where the French surrendered St. John’s to the British in 1762 in the final battle of the Seven Years’ War.
On a clear day, the views from Signal Hill stretch out over the city of St. John’s and the Atlantic Ocean. Unfortunately, the rain and fog made it impossible to see more than a few inches past our faces. Lee offered to take a photo of anyone who wanted to step out into “fog so thick you can go through it with a plow.” Herb and I and a few others braved the moment, and I quickly gave up the idea of an umbrella as mine immediately turned inside-out!
Cape Spear
The wind was still going strong, but the rain had moved on by the time we reached Cape Spear. It was a moody scene, with the lighthouse flashing its beacon and the foghorn sounding a melancholy note through the mist… a perfect backdrop for reaching the easternmost point in continental Canada and North America. Herb and I headed to the marker overlooking the Atlantic and exchanged photo-taking duties with another couple in our group.
The Lighthouses
The National Historic Site is also home to the oldest surviving lighthouse in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador. A wooden walkway takes visitors uphill through a grassy landscape to the 1836 lighthouse and its companion working lighthouse, built in 1955. The original lighthouse has been restored to what it looked like when the keeper and his family lived there.
Back outside, the new lighthouse’s beacon and foghorn were still hard at work. I was able to take a photo and a short video and felt quite lucky to be here on a foggy morning. The silver lining of the storm.
Before heading back down the walkway, we stopped in the Cape Spear Art Gallery to see the collection of lighthouse paintings and drawings by local artist Leslie H. Noseworthy. Run by the Alumni Association of the Canadian Coast Guard, “Tribute to the Lighthouses” is designed to promote the role of lighthouses and their keepers in Canadian maritime history. The permanent exhibit is open from June to September.
“The Friendliest People”
On the way back to the ship, Lee continued to regale us with stories about life in St. John’s. He would be leading a beer-tasting tour in the afternoon, he told us, encouraging us to join him. “We’re the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. Next time you’re in town, I’d love to have you come over to my house for a meal.”
Lee went on to talk about Newfoundlanders in the town of Gander who famously opened their doors to stranded airline passengers and crew for a week after their flights had been diverted when the United States closed airspace during the 9/11 attacks. The extraordinary story was later published in a book called The Day the World Came to Town and served as inspiration for the Broadway musical Come From Away.
“That’s just who we are,” Lee said. A proud Newfoundlander, indeed.
Around St. John’s
Herb and I ate lunch on the ship and decided to spend the rest of the afternoon exploring St. John’s. Clouds were still lurking overhead, but the city had the fresh feeling that permeates the air after a storm. Our plan was to visit several places that Lee had mentioned as well as track down the spot I’d read about that marks the end of the Trans-Canadian Highway.
Harbourside Park
St. John’s lovely little Harbourside Park is an ode to the province’s namesake dogs. Sculptures of a Newfoundland and a Labrador Retriever were created by Bulgarian artist Luben Boykov, who moved to Canada in 1990 and is now a resident of the province. The dogs stand proudly on stone pedestals, surrounded by trees and signage proclaiming the province’s love for these animals.
“No Province or State in North America has had the good fortune of our Province to be the home of TWO world-famous, immensely popular, extremely friendly, companion dogs.”
Kilometer Zero
St. John’s is the starting point – or ending point, depending on which direction you’re traveling – of the Trans-Canadian Highway, one of the longest highways in the world. From St. John’s, Newfound and Labrador, to Victoria, British Columbia, the TCH travels 7,811 kilometers (4,645 miles) through all ten Canadian provinces, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. The Kilometer Zero marker can be found by the front steps of City Hall.
As I was getting ready to photograph the marker, a man appeared behind us – seemingly out of nowhere – and said, “Hello!” He was wearing a tie and short-sleeved dress shirt, and Herb immediately asked him if he was trying to sell us something. “No,” the man laughed, “just trying to sell you on the friendliness of Newfoundland.” It turned out he was one of St. John’s Council members and was just being friendly. Lee’s words about the friendliest people you’ll ever meet came flying back as we chatted with this extremely nice gentleman who wanted nothing more than to say hello.
We couldn’t get this encounter out of our minds as we walked back to the ship. “How pathetic is it,” Herb lamented, “that we’re conditioned to think anybody who is nice to you out of the blue on a city street is trying to sell you something, convert you or steal from you?”
We came to a red light, where a man was waiting to cross the street. He turned to us.
“So, where are you folks from?” he asked.
How lovely! What a great day you had, confirming our fondness for that top right corner of the continent – not that we have been to Newfoundland ourselves, for the Saint John we visited was in New Brunswick. On the basis of this great story however, I think we need to visit the pair, wouldn’t you agree?! 🤣
Shame about the weather but glad to see you embracing the Norwegian theory that there’s no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothing. It looks as though the rain did let up later in the day, thank goodness.
Definitely, GilI! I didn’t realize that the two cities were only separated by an apostrophe.🤣 This was our first time visiting this corner of the continent, and I would love to return to the other far eastern provinces. Except for missing the views from Signal Hill, the weather kind of enhanced our experience. You’re so right about having the proper clothing. We brought so many different types of outerwear on this voyage – way too much, I’d thought, and yet we used every single thing at least once! Having rain jackets, waterproof pants and GoreTex shoes at Cape Spear really saved the day.
Not only the apostrophe, Mary! We were told unequivocally that Saint John New Brunswick is always written out in full to distinguish it from its close relative across the water. There must be considerable confusion though, because there’s a third Saint John in Ontario as well! (All of which reminds me of living in Newport, Isle of Wight, when letters often arrived having already done a tour of at least one other Newport in the UK, of which there are several)
I am frequently thankful for GoreTex shoes but seldom get the chance to wear the full kit 😉
That is so interesting, Gill! I didn’t know about the city in Ontario. I understand how frustrating it is to explain an address. The U.S. Post Office doesn’t deliver mail to our neighborhood, for some unexplainable reason, requiring a box at the local post office. If mail is addressed to our street address, it is returned to the sender!
I know what you mean about GoreTex shoes. Ours come in handy at home as well, but the waterproof pants stay mostly packed away, ready for an adventure like St. John’s! 😊
As an enthusiastic Lighthouse-admirer, I enjoyed reading about your Adventure around St.John’s. Beautiful description.my fellow travelers! [ I had a similar lighthouse adventure when I visited Heceta Head Lighthouse along the Oregon Coast: I slept overnight inside the old Lighthouse Keeper’s House, listened to the waves lapping & the fog horn’s warning tones, & in the morning, was served a sumptuous 9 course Breakfast together with guests from Japan with impeccable service! Heceta Head Lighthouse— Oregon Coast— memorable scenery!!!
Josephine, I’m delighted to hear from another lover of lighthouses! Thank you so much for your lovely comment and for sharing your wonderful Heceta Head story. My husband and I also had the chance to spend the night at a lighthouse at East Brother Light Station on San Francisco Bay, which might spark some memories😊. https://www.themodernpostcard.com/spending-the-night-in-a-lighthouse-sweet-dreams-over-san-francisco-bay/ There’s something so intriguing about these beautiful old lighthouses. Thanks for stopping by The Modern Postcard, and wishing you continued happy travels!