St. Petersburg Day 1: Pastel Palaces, Fabulous Fountains & The River Neva

Posted by on Mar 28, 2016 in Russia | 2 Comments
Peterhof Palace Grand Cascade

The Grand Cascade at Peterhof Palace.

It was the colors of St. Petersburg that surprised me the most. Palaces painted in beautiful shades of apricot, mint green and azure blue. Roofs the color of celadon. Cathedral domes bejeweled in sapphire and emerald. It was a pastel world designed to bring brightness to a land of long winters, and it was a feast for the senses even on a summer visit.

Our Baltic cruise on the Crystal Symphony was docked in St. Petersburg for two nights and three days. Because my husband and I had booked the ship’s excursion to Moscow on day two, our time in St. Petersburg was split into two separate days.  Visas are not required if you arrive by ship, depart within 72 hours and are accompanied by a local guide. But even with a bilingual private guide to navigate the city and get you to the front of ticket lines, there is an impossible amount to see in just a few days. I had put together our wish list, emailed the tour company and hoped for the best.

We began our day at Passport Control, a required stop to verify passports and tour plans every time anyone left the ship. From there we were directed to another area for travelers who were meeting their guides. Our tour with Anastasia Travel began with a couple of glitches: Our guide would not be the woman I had been emailing (no problem); the non-smoking car and driver we had booked would turn out to be very smoky (that was a problem, and Anastasia quickly and graciously found a replacement).

With logistics resolved, we headed with our guide Eugenia to the town of Pushkin, about 30 minutes south of St. Petersburg, and my first look at one of the luscious colors from that Crayola box of pastels – Catherine Palace. Named after Catherine I, wife of Peter the Great, the palace was commissioned by Peter in 1717 as a summer residence and completely rebuilt in the mid-1700s by their daughter Empress Elizabeth. We were told that the Empress wanted the palace to be a grand splendor in the rococo style, sparkling in gilded richness and rivaling the French palace of Versailles.

Catherine-Chapel

The domes of Catherine Palace Chapel rise above the Palace walls.

Catherine Palace

With Herb at the front of Catherine Palace.

Catherine-Gate1

The Courtyard with its Golden Gate entrance, leading up to the Palace.

The interior of Catherine Palace was as elaborate as its exterior.  We toured the Grand Hall, dining rooms, state rooms and the famously recreated Amber Room, whose treasures were looted and mysteriously disappeared during World War II. Photography was allowed everywhere in the Palace except the Amber Room.

Catherine Palace Grand Hall

The Grand Hall…the ceiling was as resplendent as the walls.

Catherine-Delft

A surprising Dutch influence – Delft porcelain heaters!

Catherine Palace Doorways

Like gilded illusions, doorways seemed to go on forever.

Catherine Palace Wallpaper

Wallpaper made from Chinese silk.

Back outside, we took a brief walk through the gardens and then drove to a nearby restaurant called Krasny Kabachok for a lunch arranged by the tour company. It was our first Russian meal – salad, stroganoff and a donut-like dessert that was eaten with a fork.

Herb at Lunch

Herb at our table at Krasny Kabachok. We were told the rough translation is “red tavern.”

After lunch we headed to Peterhof Palace and Garden, Peter the Great’s homage to Versailles. We passed the stunning Grand Palace and Upper Gardens before reaching Peterhof’s main attraction and engineering feat: The Grand Cascade fountains. Sixty-four fountains and more than 200 statues and decorations line the staircase to the Palace’s Lower Gardens, providing an ethereal bridge between the Palace and the Gulf of Finland.

Peterhof Palace

Peterhof Palace.

Peterhof-Upper

First view of the Upper Garden as we approached the Palace.

Peterhof to Sea2

Looking out to the Gulf of Finland from the top steps of the Palace.

Peterhof Palace Grand Cascade

The spectacular Grand Cascade, looking up from the bottom of the staircase.

 

Peterhof W:Herb

With Herb by the Oranzhereiny Fountain, which depicts a triton grappling with the jaws of a sea monster.

Beyond the Grand Cascade, interesting and varied fountains are found throughout the grounds. Peterhof is a beautiful place to wander, and despite the crowds, it never felt crowded.

Chess Hill Fountain

Colorful dragons spew water from the top of the Chess Hill Fountain.

Joke Fountain

The Joke Fountain is a popular spot. Sensors hidden in paving stones spray passers-by when they unknowingly step on them!

Sunburst Fountain

The Sun Fountain features a rotating disk that radiates water jets from its edge, creating a moving image of the sun’s rays.

Peterhof Sea Channel

Water flows to the Gulf of Finland through the Sea Canal, which was used to bring guests to Peterhof by boat in the 1700s.

We returned to St. Petersburg by hydrofoil, sailing from the Gulf of Finland down the Neva River. The hydrofoil is a popular transport between St. Petersburg and Pushkin, taking less than an hour, avoiding road traffic and offering a different perspective for viewing the city.

Hydrofoil in Pushkin

The hydrofoil ready for boarding in Pushkin.

Back in St. Petersburg, we set out on our final activity of the day – a canal boat on the Neva River. When I had booked with Anastasia Travel, I had mentioned that we wanted to take one of the city’s canal boat tours…what I hadn’t requested was a private boat tour, meaning that we would be the only ones on the boat!

Eugenia went inside the covered part of the boat and narrated over the microphone as Herb and I sat on the outside deck. It felt a little surreal as we passed other tour boats, and I imagined passengers wondering how we warranted one all to ourselves. But as we traveled under beautiful bridges and along the magnificent riverfront, my uneasiness quickly evaporated into the history and architecture of the great city. It had been a wonderful day in St. Petersburg, and I couldn’t wait for the next one. But in between, there would be Moscow. (St. Petersburg to Moscow by High-Speed Train.)

Canal Boat on Neva River

Our canal boat tour for two.

Neva River St. Petersburg

Architecture along the Neva.

Neva 1

Passing the Peter and Paul Fortress.

Neva

The domes of The Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood in the distance.

2 Comments

  1. Janet Roemer
    December 22, 2016

    I really enjoyed this post. Having recently waded through Massey’s biography of Peter the Great, your beautiful photos bring many of Peter’s grand accomplishments to life.

  2. Mary
    December 22, 2016

    Oh thank you, Janet! So great that you read the bio before traveling there. It’s such an over-the-top, spectacular place!