Antarctica Day 3: Torgersen Island, Adélie Penguins & The Day the Iceberg Fell

Antarctica Day 3: Torgersen Island, Adélie Penguins & The Day the Iceberg Fell

Posted by on Mar 27, 2017 in Antarctica | 6 Comments

“The ice was here, the ice was there, The ice was all around: It crack’d and growl’d, and roar’d and howl’d, Like noises in a swound!” ~Samuel Taylor Coleridge, The Rime of the Ancient Mariner Our zodiac slowed to a crawl as we made our way around what seemed to be a never-ending waterway of […]

Cruising the Lemaire Channel: Quite Possibly the Most Beautiful Place on the Planet

Cruising the Lemaire Channel: Quite Possibly the Most Beautiful Place on the Planet

Posted by on Mar 22, 2017 in Antarctica | 6 Comments

They call it Kodak Gap. A narrow, iceberg-filled passageway that is one of the most photographed places in Antarctica. Barely a mile wide and just seven miles long, it’s a world unto itself, with steep rocky cliffs, magnificent glaciers and the stillest of waters. With icebergs at every turn, it’s a challenging place to navigate, […]

Antarctica Day 2: Cuverville Island, Gentoo Penguins & Crabeater Seals

Antarctica Day 2: Cuverville Island, Gentoo Penguins & Crabeater Seals

Posted by on Mar 20, 2017 in Antarctica | 2 Comments

Gentoo penguins seemed to be everywhere on Cuverville Island. With their distinctive white stripe on the top of their heads and their bright orange-red beaks, they were quite a spectacle, climbing over the rocky terrain, waddling into the water and collecting pebbles for their nests. With 6,500 breeding pairs, it’s the largest Gentoo colony in […]

Antarctica Day 1: Half Moon Island & Chinstrap Penguins

Antarctica Day 1: Half Moon Island & Chinstrap Penguins

Posted by on Mar 15, 2017 in Antarctica | 8 Comments

“Who will buy this wonderful morning? Such a sky you never did see. Who will tie it up with a ribbon And put it in a box for me?” ~ Lionel Bart, Who Will Buy? I couldn’t believe the shades of blue. It was as if tablets of Easter egg dye were being dropped into […]

Crossing the Drake Passage: Antarctica Here We Come!

Crossing the Drake Passage: Antarctica Here We Come!

Posted by on Mar 13, 2017 in Antarctica | 6 Comments

“Where losing sight of land, we shall find the stars.” ~Sir Francis Drake The boom was loud, jolting us from our sleep. It was the middle of our first night in the Drake Passage, and the gently rocking waves of early evening had become more intense, with seconds between their rise and fall, like hang […]

The Falkland Islands: A Bumpy, Boggy Journey to Volunteer Point

The Falkland Islands: A Bumpy, Boggy Journey to Volunteer Point

Posted by on Mar 6, 2017 in Falkland Islands | 2 Comments

Part of the unwritten contract on a cruise that stops in the Falkland Islands is knowing that you might not get there. Weather Permitting is the caveat emptor, and it’s difficult to comprehend just how significant that can be until you’ve visited the remote, windswept islands. Surrounded by an unforgiving South Atlantic Ocean, it’s a […]

Montevideo, Uruguay: Plaza Independencia, La Rambla & Bodega Bouza

Montevideo, Uruguay: Plaza Independencia, La Rambla & Bodega Bouza

Posted by on Feb 27, 2017 in Uruguay | 4 Comments

“Uruguay is a native word meaning river of the birds,” our guide Tamara was explaining as we began our drive from the port of Montevideo. We were heading along La Rambla, a 14-mile promenade that hugs the coastline and borders the Río de la Plata, a river and estuary spilling into the Atlantic Ocean. The beaches beyond […]

Buenos Aires Day 2: El Ateneo Grand Splendid & Teatro Colón

Buenos Aires Day 2: El Ateneo Grand Splendid & Teatro Colón

Posted by on Feb 23, 2017 in Argentina | 4 Comments

“I have always imagined that Paradise will be a kind of library.” ~Jorge Luis Borges If there ever were a more beautiful place to look for books, it would have to be the impossibly special El Ateneo Grand Splendid. The name says it all about Buenos Aires’ 1919 theatre-turned cinema-turned bookshop: It is grand and […]

Buenos Aires Day 1: La Recoleta Cemetery, La Casa Rosada & A Starry Touch of Russia

Buenos Aires Day 1: La Recoleta Cemetery, La Casa Rosada & A Starry Touch of Russia

Posted by on Feb 15, 2017 in Argentina | 12 Comments

The last thing I expected to find at a cemetery was a door knocker. But then again, La Recoleta Cemetery is no ordinary resting place. Built in the Recoleta neighborhood of Buenos Aires in 1822, La Recoleta looks more like a lovely little city, with narrow streets, elegant house-like mausoleums, stained glass windows and marble, […]

Notes from Home: Travel Planning 101 – Part 2

Notes from Home: Travel Planning 101 – Part 2

Posted by on Jan 2, 2017 in Notes from Home | 4 Comments

Researching travel ideas on the internet is a bit like an old-fashioned treasure hunt. You have a clear idea of what you’re looking for when you begin, but one site leads to another, and instead of learning about coffee shops in Buenos Aires, you soon find yourself getting lost in turf labyrinths in England! I’ve […]